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-- Getting our Act Together
-- Page: 1 2 3 4 5

   The first step we did to get our test rig fully into the case was to pull out the motherboard tray.  You're not going to have enough room to work with inside the case, unless you have hands the size of a 3 year old.

   The tray is easy to slide out, removal of a few thumbscrews and the tray pops right out.  The rail that holds the tray is not too tight, you don't have to force the whole piece into place.

   Next step was to put on the square nipples, or motherboard stand offs for you P.C. type folks.  I actually prefer to have the old twisting brass versions.  These square versions need you to press and push to get them into the square notches.  I bent three (3) of them while putting on the six (6) that I needed.  Alright, I have barbarian hands, you got me.

   I've got the yellow rounded cables all set up to go with the motherboard.  There's only a few inches left from our motherboard to the right of the tray.  Any larger and we'll be having a problem.

   Now here's something that many of you should keep in mind.  The space between the motherboards socket, with the CPU and heatsink is going to almost always be too tall to squeeze through.  We have one of the taller GlobalWin SAK38s here to demonstrate what we're talking about.  I am actually going to be using a Thermal Right SK6, but thought this GW would emphasize the actually space in this tiny area.  My suggestion and work around was to install the CPU/HSF after the board and everything has been placed inside.  It makes it a little bit harder, but hey, this case is small and that's what you're getting.

   Everything else is pretty straight forward to install.  The front LED and buttons 2/3 pin connectors are all labeled, so that shouldn't pose a problem.  The PCI/AGP line up perfectly, so no worries there also.  Our next and last step to getting our case together was putting in the hard drive within the removable bay.

   Here's the exterior and interior of the bays.  To get the bays open, there's a small notch in the front that you need to pull to get the top lid off.  Took me a good five minutes to figure that one out ; )  The bay is made up of aluminum with a hard plastic lid.  The removable drive bay is actually a good way to remove heat from your hard drive.  The aluminum acts as a large heatsink to aid in cooling. 

   Inside you'll find a small bag actually, with some hard drive screws and an extra pair of keys.  I was getting scared that they only supplied that one key in the beginning!  If that got lost somehow, we would have been in deep trouble.

   Anyway, inside you'll find a short 4 pin molex connector that connects to the back of the bay.  Same goes with the short yellowish ide ribbon cable.  Lian Li recommends to not have your drive exceed 225mm.  I would assume that they meant in length, which is kind of strange as that already exceeds the bay itself.  Anyway, we'll be using our test rigs drive in this case which is an IBM DJNA ata/66 7200rpm 22.0GB drive.  Notice that the space in the picture above doesn't leave much room for anything else...so I would suggest not having anything over125mm.

   You can use the included screws here on the side.  All three holes line up actually, which makes it more secure for constant movement.

   Here's what the drive would look like whiles its on.  Sorry for the darker pic, I wanted to capture the actually glow of the large LED.  The top LED would go off as long as data is being accessed.  Again, this only happens if the lock is closed, otherwise it will not even boot and recognize the hard drive.

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