|-- Getting our Act Together
-- Page: 1
The first step we did to get our test rig fully into the
case was to pull out the motherboard tray. You're not going to
have enough room to work with inside the case, unless you have hands
the size of a 3 year old.
The tray is easy to slide out, removal
of a few thumbscrews and the tray pops right out. The rail
that holds the tray is not too tight, you don't have to force
the whole piece into place.
Next step was to put on the square
nipples, or motherboard stand offs for you P.C. type folks. I
actually prefer to have the old twisting brass versions. These
square versions need you to press and push to get them into the square
notches. I bent three (3) of them while putting on the six (6)
that I needed. Alright, I have barbarian hands, you got me.
I've got the yellow rounded cables all
set up to go with the motherboard. There's only a few inches left
from our motherboard to the right of the tray. Any larger and
we'll be having a problem.
Now here's something that many of you
should keep in mind. The space between the motherboards
socket, with the CPU and heatsink is going to almost always be too
tall to squeeze through. We have one of the taller GlobalWin
SAK38s here to demonstrate what we're talking about. I am
actually going to be using a Thermal Right
SK6, but thought this GW
would emphasize the actually space in this tiny area. My
suggestion and work around was to install the CPU/HSF after the
board and everything has been placed inside. It makes it a
little bit harder, but hey, this case is small and that's what
Everything else is pretty straight
forward to install. The front LED and buttons 2/3 pin
connectors are all labeled, so that shouldn't pose a problem.
The PCI/AGP line up perfectly, so no worries there also. Our
next and last step to getting our case together was putting in the
hard drive within the removable bay.
Here's the exterior and interior of the
bays. To get the bays open, there's a small notch in the front
that you need to pull to get the top lid off. Took me a good
five minutes to figure that one out ; ) The bay is made up of
aluminum with a hard plastic lid. The removable drive bay is
actually a good way to remove heat from your hard drive. The
aluminum acts as a large heatsink to aid in cooling.
Inside you'll find a small bag
actually, with some hard drive screws and an extra pair of
keys. I was getting scared that they only supplied that one
key in the beginning! If that got lost somehow, we would have
been in deep trouble.
Anyway, inside you'll find a short 4
pin molex connector that connects to the back of the bay. Same
goes with the short yellowish ide ribbon cable. Lian Li
recommends to not have your drive exceed 225mm. I would assume
that they meant in length, which is kind of strange as that already
exceeds the bay itself. Anyway, we'll be using our test rigs
drive in this case which is an IBM DJNA ata/66 7200rpm 22.0GB
drive. Notice that the space in the picture above doesn't
leave much room for anything else...so I would suggest not having
You can use the included screws here on
the side. All three holes line up actually, which makes it
more secure for constant movement.
Here's what the drive would look like
whiles its on. Sorry for the darker pic, I wanted to capture
the actually glow of the large LED. The top LED would go off
as long as data is being accessed. Again, this only happens if
the lock is closed, otherwise it will not even boot and recognize
the hard drive.