After you melt both ends of the sleeving, slide it onto the wires until you get to the end. Then go ahead and cut about .25 - .50 ” of heatshrink tubing and slide it onto the end of the sleeving.

Now remove all of the tape for that connector and fire up your hot air gun.  You can use a lighter or other heat source, but the hot air gun is my preference. After you have shrunk the heatshrink, it should look like this:

At this point, you can put the molex connector back on, but make sure you know which pins go where.  Then do that same process for the rest of the chain.

There are many different kinds of connectors that you may encounter.  This section will show you how to remove the pins.  After you remove the pins, follow the same pattern sown in the last section.

6 pin AUX: This requires the use of the little screwdriver.  It took me a while to figure out how to get the pins out, but it takes a screwdriver pushed into the smaller of the holes and then pulling the wire out.  I ended up using needle nose pliers and very carefully pulling on it.  If you pull to hard, you will end up with the pin still stuck in the connector and a bare wire in your hand.

SATA Power connector: This is extremely easy to take out, but be careful that you don’t break the tabs that keep the pin in there by pushing too hard.  Just take a screwdriver and push on the metal tab.

4 pin AUX 12v: This connector is also very easy to take out.  You need to get a regular row of staples and break off 2 staples.  Then stick them on the sides of the pin.  This will depress the tab that keeps them stuck in there and then just pull it out.

Floppy molex connector: For this connector, take a small screwdriver and push the tab on the top of the connector and pull the wire out, much the same way the SATA pics were removed.

20 Pin ATX Power: This is the most time consuming connector to take off and to keep track of the pins.  To take it off, you use the same method used for the 4 pin AUX connector, but now there are 20 of them.  My suggestion is to make mini labels and number the pins and the connector.

Putting it back together: This part of the mod might be a little irritating because you have to jam all those wires back in the hole they came out of.  Luckily for me, the grommet that came with the PSU was large enough to accommodate the cables and the sleeving.  Once you get the cables back into the hole, put the top back on the PSU and you are done.

Conclusion: This mod isn’t that intense, but it will test your patience and take a few hours to complete.  The finished product is well worth the work because you will end up with a great looking PSU to compliment your case.  Here is a picture of the finished product: