This is what they look like from
the side. Please note, the hottest radiator (from CPU) is closest the top
fans keeping 2nd matrix uncontaminated from its heat. I carefully cut out some “Plastic Card”, (Wonder material from
you local modeling shop). I then proceeded to glue them in place sealing
the edges and ends with clear silicon. This will ensure the cool air that is
sucked/blown through will not escape from the edges.
The silicon also came in handy
for sticking the matrixes to the pair of 120mm fans as well. I upturned
the box and made sure the silicon squeezed up through the screw holes on the
fans, then with a wetted finger, dabbed down the worm almost flush to the
lip. This effectively made a silicon bolt on each corner of the
To be double sure when the silicon had fully cured, I flipped the box up the
other way. Then ran two fine seams of silicon form the bottom of the fans
to the top heater matrix. This stopped all air leaks and gave additional
The fans I decided to use were
the most powerful 120mm fans I could find: -
FD1212387S-11 120mm 4pin
of the YS-Tech range is here :)Giving you even more CFM than before, these 38mm
deep fans kick-out an incredible 135CFM at 8.52W.The most awesome performance we
have seen yet. For full spec. visit YS-Tech
Again supplied from Overclock.co.uk. These fans
rip! And yes a metal grill is advisable! They will most certainly
draw blood, if your fingers get to close. I've used 4 of them plus there is a
hole for an additional 92mm fan in the back, so in total there will be 3 pushing
filtered air into the case with the two mounted on the top of the heat
exchangers sucking air out.
At full bore (12 volts) these
fans sound like a jet airplane, I intend to run these babies at either 5 or 7
volts. The theory is big fans moving at lowered voltages/rpms are almost silent.
I may even go for adjustable rheostat for total voltage control. I heard
that a car dashboard dimmer switch would do the trick nicely (another trip to
Junk Yard) but we’ll see.
The case holes were cut using a
drill, a Dremel, time, patience, and safety goggles. This
is really quite tricky, only advice I can give is taking your time, and taking
your time, I said it twice because its important, if like me you took your time
the holes should look a little like this
clean edges, expect to take about 45minutes per hole for a top job. (Still
counting all them luvley fins)
is the other two 120mm fans Dremeled and mounted on the inside side of the
case. Plastic card will be used to block out all of them small holes on
the case side.
hole with center cut out ready for 3rd
“air in” fan, all
non-used holes sealed off by plastic card and stuck neatly with silicon.
Also note rubber grommet used where pump cable leaves the case.
pump and reservoir securely cable tied to the case. The 2 connectors are
going to switch the mains live so they will have to be insulated very
Notice the tube up top is the
highest point; any small bubbles left will collect there. The
coolant mixture was made with 20% antifreeze to prevent corrosion, de-ionized
water and a couple of ounces of wetter water. She holds around 2 liters of
water, which may seem a lot but the more head of coolant the
Getting all the air out of them tubes was something else. It involved
tilting, turning and topping switching on and off, leaving the bubbles to settle
and doing it again. The tubes were cable tied only when all the air was
removed. Sealing bung was made simple with the use of hardened silicone,
which had been left and set in the nozzle.
After a few days of solid
testing with no leaks, she’s ready for the rest of the electronics. I will
use a new motherboard, which will support PC2400DDR as intend to squeeze as much
as I can from the front side bus, The Asus A7v266 looks a very nice solution,
because I already have the Promise Fastrack 100 TX2 so lack of raid controller
is not a concern. Also these boards have a 5/1 PCI divider!
Wait for Part II and we'll see what she can do.