Here is our wiring diagram:
Start out by cutting the leg on the left side of the pot. This way when you turn the the pot clockwise, the voltage will rise.
Using the breadboard style of PCB is your best bet for doing this project, and you can make a lot of these controllers with one as either a single controller or several controllers. If you're going to have several controllers on the PCB, the first thing you should do is measure the heatsink you will use on the LM317 voltage regulator, making sure you have enough room between each controller.
Solder the LM317 to the PCB. If you're not good with the screwdriver, you should put the heatsink on before soldering since you may loosen the component or break it off at the solder point if you try to do so afterwards.
Then solder the resistor right in front of the LM317, bend the resistor as shown in the picture.
Cut a small piece of wire, solder a resistor on one of its ends and heatshrink that part.
Solder the cable with the resistor to the LM317's Adjust and the other end to the pot.
Solder the ceramic capacitor, one of its leg to the LM317's input and the other leg to the next spare PCB hole.
Note: I don't recommend soldering the pot to the PCB as I did, later I've removed that pot from the PCB and wired it.
Solder another cable to the other end of the pot and to the LM317. Solder the tantalum capacitor.
BE CAREFUL! This capacitor has a polarity, it has a (+) sign indicating that you have to connect that leg to the LM317's output.
We're almost done with the PCB, this is how looks the back of it.
Here you have my 6 fan controller.