This is it after a little unscrewing. It’s just held together with two screws below the battery holder and some clips near the top. The slide switch is for the temperature unit setting.

   I thought the holes at the front are for a speaker or buzzer that goes off when the MIN and MAX temps were achieved (so what are the MIN and MAX temps for anyway?). The thermistor is noticeably small, that is if you noticed it.

   Here’s the LCD screen with the PCB removed. It wasn’t directly connected the PCB so be careful when opening the thing up.

   Here’s the setup. The PCB and the LCD screen is linked together with that hard-foam like pink with the black middle thing (I don’t know what it’s called, so there you go). Looking at the pink strip, it seems like the black middle is somehow like a magnet, or a conductive material for the LCD screen.

   Pressing the screen on the PCB with the strip over the copper leads made the display work. Now with this apparent situation, the screen must be held on the PCB to function. That’s why the PCB is screwed on the front bezel. At first, I planned to use the front bezel so I can just screw it back to place and just cut the bezel up and work from there. But the bezel is ugly so I decided not to use it (such a shallow reason don’t you think? No modding excitement there). How about a plexi sandwich? With some thin pieces of acrylic from Home Depot, this is what I came up with.

   Some scoring, snapping, drilling, filing and sanding, some small screws, nuts and washers later and voila, Plexi sandwich. Don’t look at the wrench, or you’ll mess up your sense of size. It’s 1.5 inches long. Cute isn’t it. Don’t screw the sandwich in too much. Since the LCD screen is only spaced with some rubber foam, it can get compressed too much and you’ll end up with a damaged LCD. If you notice a dot on the screen, it’s a poke from the small component at the back from screwing the sandwich too much. I loosened up the screws enough to keep the LCD screen and the PCB in place